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139 lines
9.3 KiB
Markdown
139 lines
9.3 KiB
Markdown
# FloppyEmu Disk II Enclosure
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This project contains OpenSCAD files, STL files, stickers and KiCad PCB to create a 3D-printed custom enclosure for the [Big Mess of Wires - FloppyEmu](https://www.bigmessowires.com/floppy-emu/) - an SD-card based disk drive emulator for the Apple II computer. The custom enclosure is a look-alike of Apple's historic "Disk II" drive, the first ever and hugely successful original disk drive, introduced by Apple in 1978.
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## Credits
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The idea for this 3D-printing project was triggered by similar ideas to create Disk II-shaped custom enclosures for the FloppyEmu in the [AppleFritter](http://www.applefritter.com) forum - a forum for vintage Apple computer fans. See [this discussion thread](https://www.applefritter.com/content/yet-another-floppyemu-enclosure-3d-printing-approach) for more.
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## License
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This project is released under the "Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International Public License". See [LICENSE](/LICENSE).
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The Apple logo is a registered trademark and copyright by Apple Computer Inc. Any images and photos which may show the Disk II-FloppyEmu enclosure with an Apple logo were only given as an example of how you could decorate your Disk II-FloppyEmu drive enclosure for your personal use, to match the retro look of your wonderful original Apple II computer. The 3D-printed Disk II FloppyEmu enclosure is not endorsed by Apple. This project does not grant you any rights or licenses to distribute any 3D-printed enclosures with an Apple logo.
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## Design
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The 3D design is done with OpenSCAD. All files are available in the [scad](/scad/) folder.
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The OpenSCAD file provides an option to generate the enclosure in different sizes. The minimum scale to fit the FloppyEmu PCB is 0.6 (= 60% of the original Disk II enclosure size). Currently, this reduced size is the only variant which is tested. The photos of the enclosure also show this reduced variant. Larger sizes will still require some tweaking in the SCAD files. The full-sized variant will be supported in the future (wait for it...).
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You can also choose whether to use one LED (status LED only), or two LEDs (status + power LED). One LED is the default.
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You can also find a ready-to-use STL files in the [stl](/stl/) folder. These STL files apply to the tested variant (60% of the original, one LED).
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## Button Panel
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You will need a button panel, so you can control FloppyEmu from the front.
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You can build the panel manually using a perfboard. Alternatively, use the PCB design files to order a printed circuit board.
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You'll find schematics and also a KiCad PCB design project in the [pcb](/pcb/) folder.
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There are also Gerber files in the pcb folder.
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The four push buttons are very common and easy to obtain. They are similar as the onboard buttons of FloppyEmu. Except the PCB design is made for a through-hole type push buttons (not SMD buttons as on FloppyEmu). And you will need switches with a 7mm peg, to properly mount the printed push button caps. Check on ebay searching for "micro switch push button 6x6x7mm". Your favourite electronics supplier should also have them (Germany: reichelt.de, TASTER 9303, Kurzhubtaster 6x6mm, 7,0mm).
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KiCad schematics are available in the pcb folder:
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KiCad PCB design:
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The pcb folder also contains Gerber files, if you wanted to order a PCB directly:
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## Wiring FloppyEmu
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The FloppyEmu PCB does not provide convenient pins or solder pads to tap the button and LED status signals. However, it's still relatively easy to tap the required signals - as shown by these photos. The photos apply to the Revision C model of the BMOW FloppyEmu. For other revisions, better verify the wiring with a multimeter.
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A single wire is enough for each push button is enough: all four push buttons, including the reset button, connect to common ground. The status LED, however, does not connect to ground: it's wired between the status output signal and +5V (via an appropriate resistor for the LED, of course). The only feasible place is to solder directly next to the LED. The status signal is on the right of the LED – as shown. Be careful when soldering – just touch the LED very briefly with the iron – otherwise the onboard LED will die.
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You can wire the ground lead (common for all push buttons) and the 5V (for the status LED) to the unpopulated debug connector in the middle of the FloppyEmu PCB. I soldered these two on the PCB’s bottom side, so they are almost “invisible” once the PCB is installed.
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I suggest you solder all wires to a 2x5 pin header (or boxed header), so you can use a neat ribbon cable with plugs to connect the front button panel. The ribbon cable connects all four button signals, the status signal, ground and 5V – so three pins remain unused. If you wanted a power LED – just connect between ground and 5V (via a resistor, of course). See the schematics in the [pcb](/pcb) folder for a suggested pin assignment of the pin header/ribbon cable.
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## 3D Print
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3D printing is straight forward. The models should be printed with their flat side facing downwards.
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Preferably use white or light gray filament for the top shell, base plate, and for the rear panel. Use black filament for the front panel and the buttons.
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The models are optimized to reduce 3D "supports", however, the top shell and the front panel still need "supports" to be enabled when printing.
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The buttons should be printed without supports.
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The large grooves on the top shell do require supports though - since this model should be printed upside down:
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Carefully remove the printed "supports" to reveal the top grooves:
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The rear panel and the front panel require supports - but only in tiny areas.
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### Print Duration
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The top shell takes about 7 hours to print on an Ender 3v2.
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The front and rear panel require about 1:30 hours.
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The buttons and mounting brackets require about 30 minutes.
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## Assembly
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### Shell
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The top shell and the base plate should be glued together. Make sure to completely cover the seam between these two elements, since these two parts were split for easier 3D printing, and the original Disk II does have different seams. Smoothing these seams (before applying beige "Apple II"-like paint - I used spray-paint) comepletely hides the seam. Glueing these two parts also provides extra strength: there should be no more wobble or flexing once the two parts are glued.
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### Front Panel
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First, the PCB is directly attached to the front panel with two screws.
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The rear of the PCB is screwed to the printed mounting bracket ("PCB feet").
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Then, attach the button PCB (perfboard of printed circuit board) with four screws to the front panel.
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Make sure the four buttons are working fine
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The push buttons only travel 0.25mm when depressed.
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If the PCB was slightly warped or the buttons are soldered unevenly, slightly adjust the distance between the PCB and the front-panel.
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Just unscrewing one of the four screws to release a bit of pressure may already be enough.
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The LCD display is clipped into the front panel. The pegs should exactly fit to the original FloppyEmu LCD.
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If necessary, use glue to prevent the LCD from slipping from the little pegs (this should normally not be necessary though, if you do not clip and remove the LCD from the front panel too often).
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Use a ribbon cable to connect the LCD to the original connector on the FloppyEmu PCB (make sure to connect the cable with the correct orientation!).
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Depending on the connector plugs, you may need to slightly bend the pins on the LCD, so they are angled 10-20° downward (may be necessary if the plug is too high and touches the top of the shell).
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Eventually, when everything is connected, the whole assembly slides into the front of the 3D-printed shell.
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The front panel and the rear-bracket of the PCB are fixed to the base plate with screws from the bottom of the shell.
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Once the PCB/front-panel is installed, connect the disk drive ribbon cable and use the printed cable bracket to attach the cable to the cable strain-relief at the top of the shell. This also guides the cable towards the cable slot in the rear-panel (photos above do not quite match: the cable strain-relief has since moved from the rear panel to the top of the shell).
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Finally attach the rear panel with two screws from the bottom.
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Almost done!
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But remember: it's not complete... without rubber feet... :)
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