From 37b3b9457d6be0244c46bbc0c8d8e229f80e293a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: ole00 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2019 22:39:42 +0100 Subject: [PATCH] Updated README.md * added PCB fab info * added troubleshoting item - arduino resets --- README.md | 49 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++- 1 file changed, 48 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index f4ad3a6..f353b77 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ Setup: * Check the chip identification by runnig the following command: 
-  ./afterburner i
+  ./afterburner i -t [GAL_type]
If you get some meaningfull GAL chip identification like: @@ -114,6 +114,42 @@ How aferburner works: http://www.armory.com/%7Erstevew/Public/Pgmrs/GAL/_ClikMe1st.htm +PCB: +--------------- +If you decide to use a PCB rather than making breadboard or protoboard +build, then you have several options. +- Etch your own PCB. + * The etching design is stored in 'pcb' directory, use + afterburner_etch_1200dpi_bot.png file to transfer the design to the + copper board. + * It's a single sided design, but you'll have to patch 3 + traces. See the the silk screen image, 2 short patch wires are indicated + in the top left corner, the last one slightly longer is in located + between hole C1+ and hole VIN+. Do not connect these 2 holes, just look + for the horizontal line indicated on the silkscreen. + * Resistors are not through hole but smt 1206 package to reduce drilling. + * The copper is on the bottom side, to make it easy to solder the socket + and capacitors. However, that makes it a bit complicated to solder the Arduino + pins. What needs to be done is to push the pins from the top part of the board + (side without copper) so that the metal bits are flush with the plastic which keeps + the pins together (plastic on the top), then solder the pins on the bottom side. You + may then take off the plastic from the top side and slide it in from the bottom side. + +- Order it online on jlcpcb.com, pcbway.com, allpcb.com etc. Use one of the zip archive + stored in the gerbers directory and upload it to the manufacturesr's site of your choice. + Use fab_1_1.zip for smaller PCB design that allows to program 16V8 devices only. + Use fab_2_0.zip for a bigger design that allows to program 16V8 and 22V10 devices. + The price difference should be minimal as both designs fit within 100x100 mm area. + + * Dimensions of the fab_1_1 board is 55x53 mm + * Dimensions of the fab_2_0 board is 57*72 mm + * 2 layer board + * PCB Thickness: 1.6, or 1.2 + * Copper Weight: 1 + * The rest of the options can stay default or choose whatever you fancy (colors, finish etc.) + + + Troubleshooting: ---------------- - it does not work! @@ -137,6 +173,17 @@ Troubleshooting: just via serial USB cable may not be sufficient for driving the GAL chip and the voltage up-converter +- I've set the VPP voltage to 14 V, put the chip into the Ziff socket, turned on + the power switch then run Afterburner with the 'i' command. My Arduino made a tiny + short buzzing noise and then reset itself. What went wrong ? + + * most likely the VPP is set too high and the IC does not like that, it pulls the VPP + pin down several times causing the Arduino to reset on brown out. Solution: reduce the + VPP voltage by turning the pot clockwise on the MT3608 module. + + * this happens for example on ATF devices when VPP is set to 12V. ATF should use VPP + set to 10V when programmed by Afterburner. + - afterburner reports it can not connect to /dev/ttyUSB0, permission denied