From 0624c6b230126791c69bc45dcbff7fcf6317da2b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Cupcakus Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2017 14:03:56 -0800 Subject: [PATCH] Update README.md --- README.md | 32 ++++++++++++++++---------------- 1 file changed, 16 insertions(+), 16 deletions(-) diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index e190ba9..f9f815f 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -11,28 +11,28 @@ You can of course use a super cheap linear regular like an LM317 to do the same A stock C.H.I.P is all you need, I could not get the emulator to run in headless mode, so you will need the standard firmware and then configure the emulator to auto run in the KDE desktop. # Tools Required --Soldering Iron --Edge cutters (To cut off excess pins after soldering) --Good 60/40 Solder --22 Guage or similar stranded hook up wire +- Soldering Iron +- Edge cutters (To cut off excess pins after soldering) +- Good 60/40 Solder +- 22 Guage or similar stranded hook up wire # Electrical Components Required If you are building it the exact same way I did, including the PCB this is what you will need --4x JS 2.0 PH Connectors Male & Female (For 12V In, 12V Out, Speaker Out, and Power Switch) --2x 40 Pin DIP headers --1x 4 pin 12v to 5v buck converter (Search EBay) --1x Small speaker (Digikey SP-1504 is what I used) --1x Lumineer 1300mAh 12V battery --1x Set of XT60 Drone battery connectors --1x 3S LiPo battery charger (Optional, but I'm sure you will want to charge the battery at some point) --1x 3.5" TFT LCD TV from Adafruit (https://www.adafruit.com/products/913) --1x Pushbutton toggle switch for power (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1683) +- 4x JS 2.0 PH Connectors Male & Female (For 12V In, 12V Out, Speaker Out, and Power Switch) +- 2x 40 Pin DIP headers +- 1x 4 pin 12v to 5v buck converter (Search EBay) +- 1x Small speaker (Digikey SP-1504 is what I used) +- 1x Lumineer 1300mAh 12V battery +- 1x Set of XT60 Drone battery connectors +- 1x 3S LiPo battery charger (Optional, but I'm sure you will want to charge the battery at some point) +- 1x 3.5" TFT LCD TV from Adafruit (https://www.adafruit.com/products/913) +- 1x Pushbutton toggle switch for power (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1683) # 3D Prints I used the excellent 3D models from Thingiverse of a user named option8 and printed them on my Zortrax M200 pinter at 0.19mm/Medium infill. The original models are meant for a Raspberry Pi powered via USB, so I modified the base a bit for this self contained model. --Apple II Enclosure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340677) --Apple II Monitor (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:377253) --Apple II Enclosed Base (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103158) +- Apple II Enclosure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340677) +- Apple II Monitor (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:377253) +- Apple II Enclosed Base (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103158) I drilled a hole through the top of the enclosure into the monitor to run the wires for the monitor power, power switch, and video signals into the monitor. Standard super glue seemed to work fine for gluing everything together.